Our ten day trip through northern Laos began with a two day slow boat trip down the Mekong River. Each day was about 6-8 hours on the boat with one overnight stop. The boat was long and flat with relocated car seats for the lucky passengers, and hard wooden benches with occasional cushions for the late arriving ones. Not much can be said for the boat, but the scenery was nothing short of amazing. Both days the boat moved at a decent speed with the stong current of the Mekong and occasionally stopped at tiny villages along the way to pick up sacks of rice and produce or villagers. Aside from these tiny villages, we passed no development, just pristine jungle and beautiful limestone mountains. We stopped for the first night in a town called Pak Beng, filled with guesthouses, restaurants, and takeaway sandwich stands...basically a town set up for one-night visitors from the slow boat. It was a nice stopover – we had a delicious dinner and nice guesthouse, and in the morning we picked up sandwiches for the boat ride. The second day was much like the first, but we had a different boat and we found it was possible to be even less comfortable: no car seats, and no cushions! My back was very angry with me when the day was done, but once again, the scenery made up for it. We reached our final destination in the evening at a town called Louang Prabang, and we settled in to stay for a few days.
Thursday, October 21, 2010
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
Thailand Part 2
After Cambodia, we went back to Bangkok to eventually head towards Northern Thailand. A couple days in Bangkok allowed us to see some sights and visit a tailor for custom suits, and then we were on a train north to Chiang Mai. The train was 16 hours overnight, and we had a 2nd class sleeper. It wasn't the fastest or the most comfortable way to travel, but we arrived safely and saw some beautiful scenery along the way. Chiang Mai is a quaint artsy town and it was nice to take it slow, just walking around seeing the Buddhist temples and eating delicious northern Thai cuisine. We enjoyed traditional Thai massages for the bargain price of $5. There were great deals to be had on souvenirs and gifts at the famous night bazaar and the Sunday strolling market. The highlight was when we went on a day trip with “Flight of the Gibbon” to zipline in the rainforest jungles. It was our first ziplining experience and we loved every minute of it, but eventually, it was time to move on and embark on the next adventure....Laos!
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
Cambodia & the Temples of Angkor
The 2nd day in Cambodia we were revived and ready to do some exploring. We met a tuk tuk driver named David and we hired him to be our guide for the area. The first day we visited a floating village on Tonle Sap, SE Asia's largest lake. We brought pencils to the floating school and even though they try to market it to tourists, it was interesting seeing all the homes, schools, basketball courts, and restaurants all floating near the banks of the lake. The people in their homes were cooking, doing laundry, or watching TV! The kids rowed aound on what looked like those “saucers” we used to use for sledding.
The next day was devoted to temples temples temples! We visited Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Preah Kahn, Ta Som, & Ta Phrom, to name a few. This took all day - the temples are huge, some as big as towns, some are actually walled cities. They are awe inspiring, and it is amazing that they are still standing after the Khmer Rouge destroyed so many religious structures. The Temples at Angkor are a sight not to miss in SE Asia.
Cambodia was an eye-opener for us. The people of Cambodia have been through things we couldn't even imagine in our nightmares, yet they are so friendly and happy. We feel very lucky to be in our situation and were more than happy to spend our tourist dollars in this poor country.
The next day was devoted to temples temples temples! We visited Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Preah Kahn, Ta Som, & Ta Phrom, to name a few. This took all day - the temples are huge, some as big as towns, some are actually walled cities. They are awe inspiring, and it is amazing that they are still standing after the Khmer Rouge destroyed so many religious structures. The Temples at Angkor are a sight not to miss in SE Asia.
Cambodia was an eye-opener for us. The people of Cambodia have been through things we couldn't even imagine in our nightmares, yet they are so friendly and happy. We feel very lucky to be in our situation and were more than happy to spend our tourist dollars in this poor country.
Monday, October 11, 2010
Island Fever & Thailand Part I
Southeast Asia has some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. We saw amazing islands of Indonesia, but we wanted more! On the west coast of Malaysia, the Perhentian Islands (Pulau Perhentian) were stunning. The white sand and turquise waters were incredible, but our favorite thing was the seafood barbecues for dinner. They had the day's catch laid out to choose, and we feasted on whole snappers, stingray filets, and marlin filets that week...and then we had southern Thailand's beaches to look forward to!
When we started to plan our trip to Southeast Asia, the political riots in Thailand were making us wonder if we would even be able to visit the country, but as it turned out, things had settled down quite a bit by the time we were on our way to Thailand. We entered the contry from Penang, Malaysia, overland. The visa-on-arrival we received was only for 15 days, so we had to get moving. Krabi (gra-BEE) is a small town on the southwest coast (the Andaman coast), which was our first stop. We spent time in the town and met a friend, Pang, who gave us our own private cooking lesson on her famous Pad Thai! She has a restaurant called Sweet 'n' Sour with the best coffee around, so that is where we could be found every morning. Rai Ley Beach was a day trip from there, and looked like a postcard version of paradise. Turquise water, sugary white sand, surrounded by huge limestone cliffs. We had great weather and it was smiles all around.
From there, we ferried to Ko Phi Phi (go p. p., yes, have a laugh), where we took a day trip to see where The Beach was filmed. The weather was not great that day, the seas treacherous, but we made a fun day out of it anyway, between the prayers while crossing through swells twice and big as our tiny longtail boat.
Then it was a bus to the east coast (the Gulf of Thailand) where we visited Ko Samui (go sa-MOO-ee) and Ko Phangan (go pan-yan). Samui has amazing beaches as well, so no need to explain how we spent our days. Phangan is famous for its wild Full Moon Parties, but fortunately or unfortunately, we were not in the full moon, so we had the place to ourselves. By this time, our 15-day visa was almost expired, and at the risk of being fined, we had to get our butts out of the country.
Here came the epic journey: overland from Ko Phangan to Siem Reap, Cambodia. It was 2 ferries to get to the mainland of Thailand, then an eight hour bus ride to Bangkok. Taxi to the bus stop at 1am, catch the 3am bus to the Thailand/Cambodia border...the border was an adventure in itself. We obtained our visas and had a final two hour taxi ride to Siem Reap, where the taxi driver made us take a tuk tuk the last few kilometers to our hotel. It took 24 hours in all, with almost no sleep. We took a day to recover, but then it was time to explore Cambodia!
When we started to plan our trip to Southeast Asia, the political riots in Thailand were making us wonder if we would even be able to visit the country, but as it turned out, things had settled down quite a bit by the time we were on our way to Thailand. We entered the contry from Penang, Malaysia, overland. The visa-on-arrival we received was only for 15 days, so we had to get moving. Krabi (gra-BEE) is a small town on the southwest coast (the Andaman coast), which was our first stop. We spent time in the town and met a friend, Pang, who gave us our own private cooking lesson on her famous Pad Thai! She has a restaurant called Sweet 'n' Sour with the best coffee around, so that is where we could be found every morning. Rai Ley Beach was a day trip from there, and looked like a postcard version of paradise. Turquise water, sugary white sand, surrounded by huge limestone cliffs. We had great weather and it was smiles all around.
From there, we ferried to Ko Phi Phi (go p. p., yes, have a laugh), where we took a day trip to see where The Beach was filmed. The weather was not great that day, the seas treacherous, but we made a fun day out of it anyway, between the prayers while crossing through swells twice and big as our tiny longtail boat.
Then it was a bus to the east coast (the Gulf of Thailand) where we visited Ko Samui (go sa-MOO-ee) and Ko Phangan (go pan-yan). Samui has amazing beaches as well, so no need to explain how we spent our days. Phangan is famous for its wild Full Moon Parties, but fortunately or unfortunately, we were not in the full moon, so we had the place to ourselves. By this time, our 15-day visa was almost expired, and at the risk of being fined, we had to get our butts out of the country.
Here came the epic journey: overland from Ko Phangan to Siem Reap, Cambodia. It was 2 ferries to get to the mainland of Thailand, then an eight hour bus ride to Bangkok. Taxi to the bus stop at 1am, catch the 3am bus to the Thailand/Cambodia border...the border was an adventure in itself. We obtained our visas and had a final two hour taxi ride to Siem Reap, where the taxi driver made us take a tuk tuk the last few kilometers to our hotel. It took 24 hours in all, with almost no sleep. We took a day to recover, but then it was time to explore Cambodia!
Thursday, August 19, 2010
A Double Dose of Chinatown
We left Singapore behind and headed back into the chaos. Several buses got us to Melaka (Malacca), a laid-back "world heritage" town on the west coast with Chinese, Portuguese, and Dutch influence. The main attraction here is the unique and delicious Chinese-Malay food. The town is very charming and we spent most of the time just walking around exploring in between meals. Did I mention the food is spectacular? The culture of Melaka is that of the Peranakan people - the descendants of Chinese immigrants from the 16th century, throughout the Dutch and British occupation - also called Baba Nonya. The "nonya" food was just amazing, and we ate all the local favorites: cendol, laksa, popiah, satay celup, and pineapple tarts.
When we decided to move on, it was more buses to get to Kuala Lumpur (KL). Malaysia has a great bus system, easy and affordable. The long-distance buses have air-con (luxurious!!). KL was very exciting to explore. There is so much going on, something for everyone. In Chinatown, the Petaling markets sell everything under the sun - souveniers, knock off designer items, jewelry, pirated DVDs, and tons of great local food and drinks. We spent our evenings wandering the stalls and trying wierd food & drinks. I never thought I would hear Kent say, "I love this soy milk drink!" One day we took a trip just outside the city to Batu Caves, which are Hindu temples and huge caves in limestone hills. We also visited the Petronas Twin Towers, with a visit up to the 41st floor Sky Deck connecting the 2 towers, which was so cool. Malaysia is definitely turning out to be a great country to travel - cheap, easy to get around, and great sights to see.
When we decided to move on, it was more buses to get to Kuala Lumpur (KL). Malaysia has a great bus system, easy and affordable. The long-distance buses have air-con (luxurious!!). KL was very exciting to explore. There is so much going on, something for everyone. In Chinatown, the Petaling markets sell everything under the sun - souveniers, knock off designer items, jewelry, pirated DVDs, and tons of great local food and drinks. We spent our evenings wandering the stalls and trying wierd food & drinks. I never thought I would hear Kent say, "I love this soy milk drink!" One day we took a trip just outside the city to Batu Caves, which are Hindu temples and huge caves in limestone hills. We also visited the Petronas Twin Towers, with a visit up to the 41st floor Sky Deck connecting the 2 towers, which was so cool. Malaysia is definitely turning out to be a great country to travel - cheap, easy to get around, and great sights to see.
Thursday, August 12, 2010
A Stopoff in Singapore
In Singapore, we found refuge from the madness of Southeast Asia. A friend from my high school swimming years, Gena, lives and works in Singapore and put us up in her amazing top-floor apartment with views into the downtown. We arrived just in time for National Day, and although tickets were needed to see the parade, we were able to see the fireworks from Gena's apartment!
While in Singapore, we ate at several different hawker centers for Indian, Chinese, and Malaysian foods. We had a walk around the beautiful botanic gardens and the upscale shopping of Orchard Road. We visited Little India and Arab Street (Philly really needs an Arab Street) and of course saw the famous Raffles Hotel and drank Singapore Slings along Boat Quay in the evening! It was a really fun and rejuvenating week.
While in Singapore, we ate at several different hawker centers for Indian, Chinese, and Malaysian foods. We had a walk around the beautiful botanic gardens and the upscale shopping of Orchard Road. We visited Little India and Arab Street (Philly really needs an Arab Street) and of course saw the famous Raffles Hotel and drank Singapore Slings along Boat Quay in the evening! It was a really fun and rejuvenating week.
Monday, August 9, 2010
Journey to the Gili Islands
After a 4 hour "slow boat" ride we arrived in Lembar Harbor on Lombok. We were squeezed in a shuttle van with 10 other travelers, bags overflowing, and made a hasty horn-blaring journey north to Senggigi, passing motorbikes and horse-drawn carts along the way. Senggigi brought us trouble finding accommodation in our price range, but we lucked out by meeting a family who rents out rooms in their house in the village during busy times. The 14 year old son even rented out his room to another couple so his parents would give him money to buy new string for his kite. That evening, we stopped by the beach to watch the locals' football (soccer) tournament and a great sunset before heading to a tent - literally - to eat some fresh local seafood for dinner, cooked in honey and oyster sauce. Delicious!!
After 2 nights in Senggigi, we said goodbye to our temporary family and journeyed to the Gili Islands via shuttle and boat. The boat barely looked seaworthy, but we crowded in with about 20 tourists and locals with produce and supplies, and set off to Gili Trawangan.
Gili T is one of three Gili Islands off the northwest coast of Lombok. The Gilis are a popular vacation spot and excellent for diving, snorkeling, and soaking up the sun. Gili T is also known for its great bars and restaurants. After taking the slow route here, we wanted to stay for awhile, so we pretended we were on vacation, although our budget couldn't tell the difference. We loved the snorkeling, and although a lot of the shallow coral is ruined from the anchoring boats, we saw lots of amazing fish and sea turtles. The culinary highlight was when we feasted on our choice of the fisherman's daily catch barbecued for us while sitting amongst tables on the beach. We took a different route back to Bali, the fast boat, but with the rough seas, it was one of the most terrifying experiences of my life. We spent 2 nights in Kuta before catching our early morning flight to Singapore.
After 2 nights in Senggigi, we said goodbye to our temporary family and journeyed to the Gili Islands via shuttle and boat. The boat barely looked seaworthy, but we crowded in with about 20 tourists and locals with produce and supplies, and set off to Gili Trawangan.
Gili T is one of three Gili Islands off the northwest coast of Lombok. The Gilis are a popular vacation spot and excellent for diving, snorkeling, and soaking up the sun. Gili T is also known for its great bars and restaurants. After taking the slow route here, we wanted to stay for awhile, so we pretended we were on vacation, although our budget couldn't tell the difference. We loved the snorkeling, and although a lot of the shallow coral is ruined from the anchoring boats, we saw lots of amazing fish and sea turtles. The culinary highlight was when we feasted on our choice of the fisherman's daily catch barbecued for us while sitting amongst tables on the beach. We took a different route back to Bali, the fast boat, but with the rough seas, it was one of the most terrifying experiences of my life. We spent 2 nights in Kuta before catching our early morning flight to Singapore.
Saturday, August 7, 2010
The Southeast Asia Adventure Begins
After some last minute preparations in Cairns and Darwin, we were psyched to start the Southeast Asia leg of our adventure! Vaccines out of the way and malaria pills packed, we flew to Bali, a 2 hour flight from Darwin. The difference hit me right away; we walked out of the airport and suddenly had to shift into "SE Asia Mode." Amidst the late night chaos, we managed to get a taxi to Balangan Beach where we spent the first three days of Bali, and the only accommodation that we had booked. Balangan Beach is known for great surf and incredible sunsets, and for good reason! We enjoyed the beach, went for a surf session, met new friends, ate Indonesian food, and drank Bintang while watching the sun set. Paradise!!
After Balangan Beach, we headed to an inland city called Ubud, where we finally found a guest house to stay after about 15 tries! It is high season here, so we knew we might have some trouble finding accommodation. We eventually found a cheap place to stay and were pleasantly surprised by the delicious banana pancakes for breakfast! The market in Ubud is awesome and it was tough not going crazy with all the cool knick knacks and souveniers for sale, but we had to keep in mind we would come across markets all over Asia. Just a few things, haha! In Ubud we visited the Monkey Forest, a sanctuary inhabited by hundreds of crazy Balinese Macquaques. Kent had an interesting time...One monkey took a liking to him and ate a banana while sittng on his back. Later on, after a little mishap, a mother macquaque tried to attack him, but he escaped with only minor scratches. Another night we watched the dance troupe Peliatan Masters perform a traditional Balinese Legong dance at the Arma Museum. From Ubud we made our way to Padangbai, a little fishing village on the coast, from where we ferried east to the island Lombok.
After Balangan Beach, we headed to an inland city called Ubud, where we finally found a guest house to stay after about 15 tries! It is high season here, so we knew we might have some trouble finding accommodation. We eventually found a cheap place to stay and were pleasantly surprised by the delicious banana pancakes for breakfast! The market in Ubud is awesome and it was tough not going crazy with all the cool knick knacks and souveniers for sale, but we had to keep in mind we would come across markets all over Asia. Just a few things, haha! In Ubud we visited the Monkey Forest, a sanctuary inhabited by hundreds of crazy Balinese Macquaques. Kent had an interesting time...One monkey took a liking to him and ate a banana while sittng on his back. Later on, after a little mishap, a mother macquaque tried to attack him, but he escaped with only minor scratches. Another night we watched the dance troupe Peliatan Masters perform a traditional Balinese Legong dance at the Arma Museum. From Ubud we made our way to Padangbai, a little fishing village on the coast, from where we ferried east to the island Lombok.
Friday, July 16, 2010
Green Island Is The Place To Be!
From Cairns, we took a day trip to Green Island. Our arrival was welcomed by a pod of minke whales and dolphins just off the reef! We spent the day snorkeling with occasional breaks relaxing on the beach. The snorkeling was incredible. The first things we saw were amazing coral, fish, starfish, and a green octopus with tentacles a foot long! Kent spotted a turtle while we were on the beach, so we raced to put on our gear and swim with the turtle. We were swimming as fast as our fins would take us, with our heads down looking for the turtle, and we finally spotted him...and his friend reef shark!!! Kent and I have differing stories of our reactions when we realized we were about to headbutt a shark, but I am just bummed I didn't get a picture!
Later, we tried another spot to snorkel and found 3 large sea turtles, which we swam right next to! That was awesome, and my pride and joy is the underwater video I took swimming next to one! The whole day was just an amazing experience and only a taste of what the Great Barrier Reef offers.
Later, we tried another spot to snorkel and found 3 large sea turtles, which we swam right next to! That was awesome, and my pride and joy is the underwater video I took swimming next to one! The whole day was just an amazing experience and only a taste of what the Great Barrier Reef offers.
Sunday, July 11, 2010
North Queensland...The End of the East
There were plenty of sights to keep us occupied in Townsville for more than a few days. The city was getting ready for the Townsville 400 and there was a lot of preparation going on. We managed to enjoy ourselves by visiting the Riverway with beautiful public swimming pools along the Ross River. We met up for a great dinner with Cathy, a friend of mine from the YMCA Hurricanes swim team. Another day we strolled along the 2km Strand (a walkway along the ocean) to the Rock Pool-- a public saltwater swimming pool, much like the Lagoon in Airlie Beach. Along the Strand we got our fix of fish & chips and also a treat from Cold Rock (the Aussie version of Cold Stone). Kent and I hopped on the ferry to Magnetic Island to stay for a couple of nights, do some kayaking, and enjoy being one with nature.
From Townsville it was north to Mission Beach, THE place to skydive, apparently. I spent the time trying to recover from a bout of sore throat. Our last leg of the trip north was the bus ride to Cairns. We finished traveling up the east coast a week earlier than expected, but are looking forward to staying in one place for 9 days!
From Townsville it was north to Mission Beach, THE place to skydive, apparently. I spent the time trying to recover from a bout of sore throat. Our last leg of the trip north was the bus ride to Cairns. We finished traveling up the east coast a week earlier than expected, but are looking forward to staying in one place for 9 days!
Friday, July 9, 2010
Airlie Adventures
After we recovered from the overnight bus ride, Airlie Beach was heaven. We were finally in tropical weather and ready to soak up the sun, especially after hearing about the heat wave back home. Airlie Beach has an awesome "lagoon" - a man made pool designed to look like a beach or lagoon, right next to the harbor. We relaxed and swam; it was preparation for our sailing trip in the Whitsundays Islands! When it was time to set sail, we couldn't have asked for better weather. Wind 10-12 knots, sunshine all around. We raised the sails and headed east. The first stop was Hayman Island, where we we spotted a humpback whale! They migrate north this time of year to have their calves and fatten them up for the trip south. Hayman Island is also where Kent and I did our first ever scuba dive! We got a quick lesson from our instructor and next thing we knew, we were surrounded by tropical fish...yellow tailed fusiliers swam all around and over us, and a huge (1 meter long!) Maori wrasse came to see what all the commotion was about. We were on cloud 9. We saw some great coral and amazing fish, including parrotfish, anemonefish, giant clams, coral trout, barramundi cod, and tons more. We were totally hooked by this underwater world and did another dive the next day! Getting certified is now on our to-do list. Another highlight of our sailing trip was when we visited Whitehaven Beach. We walked up to a lookout point and I was able to get a postcard-worthy panoramic picture, so you can all see the amazing view! We spent a few hours on the beach; the sand was the whitest and finest I have ever seen. There were some stingrays and batfish in the water, but luckily there were no jellyfish! We didn't want the tour to end, but we eventually had to step back on land and continue north to Townsville!
Saturday, June 26, 2010
Movin' On Up
Our journey up the east coast has been busy busy busy! There are so many charming little beach towns, and it would be impossible to stop at them all, so we have been picking and choosing where to spend time. Keeping in mind that it is winter here, the beach towns are in their low season. When we left Sydney, it was not quite beach weather, so we were ready to move north in search of warmth! So far we made stops in Newcastle, Port Macquarie, Byron Bay, Nimbin, Surfers Paradise, Brisbane, Noosa Heads, Hervey Bay, and we just returned from Fraser Island....and we still have three weeks to go until we plan to be in Cairns! Here are a few highlights: In Newcastle, Kent and I won a trivia contest. In Port Maquarie, we sampled the local shrimp. In Byron Bay the beach and light house were beautiful, but the highlight was our trip to Nimbin, a tiny hippie town stuck in the 70's. Surfer's Paradise found us in a one-bedroom apartment for the same price as staying in a hostel. Brisbane is a great city with a man-made beach right along the Brisbane River and some great parks and gardens. Noosa Heads is a relaxing beach town with a great coastal walk and from where we made a trip to the Australia Zoo ("The Steve Irwin Zoo"). We got to pet koalas, wallabies, kangaroos, and wombats! Hervey Bay was highlighted by our 2-day tour to Fraser Island, which was incredible. We visited a shipwreck from 1935 (SS Maheno), crystal clear lakes and creeks, huge sand dunes, and rainforests. The weather was slightly warmer than in Sydney, but we still needed to grab our sweatshirts in the cool evenings. The hostel has a great woodburning stove in the middle of the bar/restaurant which was really toasty and reminiscent of home. From Hervey Bay we took an overnight bus to Airlie Beach to continue our journey north!
Sunday, May 30, 2010
A Slice of Sydney
We had heaps of fun in Sydney!! (how am I doing speakin' Australian?) We arrived on a beautiful sunny Wednesday and were off to a good start celebrating at the pub with a pitcher of Fat Yak Pale Ale! The next day, we were climbing the Sydney Harbour Bridge. What a cool experience! If anyone plans on going to Sydney, and isn't afraid of heights...do this! We got to see the structure and design of the bridge up close, and the view from the top can't be beat! Looking down onto Sydney Harbour and the Opera House, and you can see for miles, the Blue Mountains in the West, the Ocean to the East...just incredible. And to top off an already amazing day, on our way to the grocery store we chanced upon a bar playing the Phillies on all the flatscreens! Halliday was on the mound, and they lost in extra innings, but this was the first time we have been able to see a game on TV instead of just catching up online, which was a huge treat.
On Saturday, we went on a backstage tour of the Opera House. This tour began at the crack of dawn, but was totally worth it. We knew nothing about the Opera House before the tour, but we got to see all 5 theaters, empty, and go backstage to see the behind-the-scenes happenings and dressing rooms. Outside, a crowd was gathering to witness the homecoming of Jessica Watson, the 16 year old who sailed solo around the world in 7 months! We found a nice grassy spot to hang out. There were thousands of spectators in front of the Opera House where they had set up a stage and a huge welcome back event for her. There were tons of sailboats following her into the harbor, along with an entourage of security and family, and helicoptors everywhere. Quite a scene!
Another highlight of Sydney was when we had a surfing session at Bondi. The weather had taken a turn and there were showers in the area, but the water was unusually warm and we had so much fun riding the world-famous waves. In all, we spent time in Manly Beach, Bondi Beach, The Rocks, and the CBD. We were in Sydney for nearly 3 weeks, and could have stayed longer, but it was time to move on up the East Coast toward Brisbane!
On Saturday, we went on a backstage tour of the Opera House. This tour began at the crack of dawn, but was totally worth it. We knew nothing about the Opera House before the tour, but we got to see all 5 theaters, empty, and go backstage to see the behind-the-scenes happenings and dressing rooms. Outside, a crowd was gathering to witness the homecoming of Jessica Watson, the 16 year old who sailed solo around the world in 7 months! We found a nice grassy spot to hang out. There were thousands of spectators in front of the Opera House where they had set up a stage and a huge welcome back event for her. There were tons of sailboats following her into the harbor, along with an entourage of security and family, and helicoptors everywhere. Quite a scene!
Another highlight of Sydney was when we had a surfing session at Bondi. The weather had taken a turn and there were showers in the area, but the water was unusually warm and we had so much fun riding the world-famous waves. In all, we spent time in Manly Beach, Bondi Beach, The Rocks, and the CBD. We were in Sydney for nearly 3 weeks, and could have stayed longer, but it was time to move on up the East Coast toward Brisbane!
Sunday, May 16, 2010
Beaches & Brews
We finally gave in and traveled a way other than a relocation. After hanging around Perth for a few days, we took the train to Fremantle and Cottesloe, beach suburbs of Perth, where we did as the locals do...we were beach bums and microbrew connoisseurs.
After enough lounging (yes, there is such a thing), we wanted to explore the southwest of Australia, in particular the Margaret River region, which is best seen by car. We rented a tiny economy-size car and made our way down to some awesome beaches and beautiful wine country. The beaches of Yallingup and Margaret River were packed with surfers, the waves head high and clean. The water was cold, full wetsuits needed, but that was no obstacle. The weather felt like September to us...warm enough to lie on the beach midday, but once the sun goes down, make sure you have some warmer clothes to put on...and no more humidity! While in Margaret River, aside from lounging on the beach, we went on a wine tour, tried some local microbrews, and explored Mammoth Cave.
After those little side trips, our time on the West Coast was nearing an end. We drove back to Perth and caught a flight back to Melbourne. We had been in Australia about 3 months at this point, and we hadn't even seen any of the East Coast!! Back in Melbourne, we met up with our friends Tanya and Mario when we went to see "the footy" - Aussie rules football. We made another visit to the famous Queen Victoria Market, and did some sightseeing we missed the first time around. Then it was on to Sydney!
After enough lounging (yes, there is such a thing), we wanted to explore the southwest of Australia, in particular the Margaret River region, which is best seen by car. We rented a tiny economy-size car and made our way down to some awesome beaches and beautiful wine country. The beaches of Yallingup and Margaret River were packed with surfers, the waves head high and clean. The water was cold, full wetsuits needed, but that was no obstacle. The weather felt like September to us...warm enough to lie on the beach midday, but once the sun goes down, make sure you have some warmer clothes to put on...and no more humidity! While in Margaret River, aside from lounging on the beach, we went on a wine tour, tried some local microbrews, and explored Mammoth Cave.
After those little side trips, our time on the West Coast was nearing an end. We drove back to Perth and caught a flight back to Melbourne. We had been in Australia about 3 months at this point, and we hadn't even seen any of the East Coast!! Back in Melbourne, we met up with our friends Tanya and Mario when we went to see "the footy" - Aussie rules football. We made another visit to the famous Queen Victoria Market, and did some sightseeing we missed the first time around. Then it was on to Sydney!
Saturday, May 15, 2010
The Joys of...Driving?
One of the first things we realized after getting to Australia is that traveling in this country is tough on the budget. We started to get worried that we wouldn't get to see much of the country, as vast as it is. That is, until we discovered the amazing value of relocating vehicles!! A popular and expensive way of traveling Australia is to rent campervans. Because some people rent a vehicle for a one-way trip, there are vehicles that need to be returned to their original location. This is where we come into the equation. A relocation is a one-way rental in which you rent a campervan for under $5/day and deliver it to a certain location. Relocating campervans is not for everyone, but if you don't mind driving and are flexible with your time and itinerary, it is one of the best ways to see the country and is extremely inexpensive! We first tried it out to get from Melbourne to Adelaide. We had to be patient waiting for the right vehicle, to and from the right locations. When one finally came up, we were lucky enough to snag the booking before anyone else. It worked out so well, and they even gave us a fuel allowance! Since the vehicles need to be at the drop-off location by a certain date, you only have a given number of days to get the car there. This does limit some sightseeing, but if you plan well, it's not a problem.
We already had our second campervan booked before we even reached Adelaide! We spent a week in Adelaide, then began our road trip through the Outback to Alice Springs. The day after arriving in Alice, we had another relocation booked to drive to Darwin... and after several days in Darwin, we picked up our 4th and most ambitious relocation, from Darwin to Perth. Since arriving in Australia, we have driven nearly 10,000 kms. It's been a challenge, but we have seen parts of the country that we never thought we would get to experience. My advice to anyone traveling in Australia...Take advantage of this amazing system! It has served us well so far, and I don't think we have driven our last relocation.
We already had our second campervan booked before we even reached Adelaide! We spent a week in Adelaide, then began our road trip through the Outback to Alice Springs. The day after arriving in Alice, we had another relocation booked to drive to Darwin... and after several days in Darwin, we picked up our 4th and most ambitious relocation, from Darwin to Perth. Since arriving in Australia, we have driven nearly 10,000 kms. It's been a challenge, but we have seen parts of the country that we never thought we would get to experience. My advice to anyone traveling in Australia...Take advantage of this amazing system! It has served us well so far, and I don't think we have driven our last relocation.
Thursday, April 8, 2010
Stay On SEALED Roads With a 4x4?? Are We MAD??
Kent, Hannah, Emma, and I picked up the 4x4 with direct instructions not to go off-roading since we were relocating the vehicle. A relocation vehicle is a one-way rental for a fraction of the price since the company needs the vehicle in a certain location. Well, needless to say, we knew that rule was not going to be adhered to. We drove to Port Fairy to complete our tour of the Great Ocean Road and head towards Adelaide. From our research, we knew that Canunda National Park had beach camping, so we made a stop there. The Lonely Planet described it as having "big sand dunes" and campfires allowed. Perfect!! So we put the vehicle in 4wd and set off on the dirt roads. Our first obstacle was called "Khyber Pass," which was a narrow path through soft sand dunes with rocky walls on either side. I took the driver's seat. Heavy on the acceleration, we gunned it through Khyber Pass, with only a few minor setbacks and luckily no scratches on the vehicle. Phew! Glad that was over with.....until after several more kilometers of packed sandy roads, we came to the "big sand dunes." A dune 8 meters high loomed in front of us. My heart was pounding. All 4 of us were stoked, but a bit tentative, after all, we were not supposed to be off-roading. After some pep talks and mental preparation, we soared up over the dune. Total chaos in the vehicle. But we made it!! The back looked like an earthquake had hit, and poor Hannah was stuck under all the bags!! Now, where is that ocean with the packed sand we can drive on?? Well, imagine a scene from Egypt. The dune didn't have an end. Sand for miles. Soft mounds piling up everywhere, and thinking you will be able to see something "just after we get over the next dune." We had to admit that finding the ocean was not to be. It was getting dark and not a soul would be passing through anytime soon. We had to give in and turn back to find a place to set up camp, preferably on solid ground. But again, more difficulty. On the "dune" the sand was softer that ever and we found ourselves stuck yet again. I put it in low gear, but no luck. There were no sticks or stones in sight to put under the tires. The other three were going to have to push! We dug out the tires and after immense effort from Hannah, Emma, and Superman, we made it free. But not without nearly 4 heart attacks. Luckily we didn't have to go through Khyber Pass again, we were just looking for the closest sealed road - by now it was beginning to drizzle! We made it to Beachport Conservation Park with about 15 minutes of light left for us to set up camp. After this adrenaline-packed day, we were all grateful for the box of wine waiting in the back.
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Leaving the Tent
Once we were settled in our new temporary home, we began to relax and explore our surroundings. Wye River is hours away from Melbourne, accessible by bus to those of us lacking an automobile. The town consists of the Big4 Holiday Park, a pub, and a small general store, both wildly overpriced. The nearest town is a half hour bus ride, or over an hour to a town with decent prices. Luckily, we caught a ride into Torquay for groceries with Sharna and Damo, 2 of the permanent caretakers at the campgrounds, and got enough food to last us weeks!
We worked when the park was busy, mostly on the weekends. Kent spent his Friday and Saturday nights as security guard from 10:30-2:30am. We lazed on the beach when it was sunny, occasionally going for a dip in the "refreshing" (cold) sea. We indulged in rotisserie chicken and chocolate cake for Kent's birthday. We played board games and card games, cooked barbecues, and explored the local area. Sharna and Damo took us to see glow worms along some deserted trails one night and another time We picked wild blackberries and made pancakes. We prayed our tent wouldn't blow away when storms came through, and I gave Kent a haircut. We made some awesome friends and exciting traveling plans.
After making our furtune as casual cleaners and security guard, we couldn't wait to begin exploring the rest of this huge continent. We joined forces with Hannah and Emma, 2 British girls who were also working with us at Wye River, and we arranged to see the rest of the Great Ocean Road and the State of Victoria, and make our way to Adelaide via car rental and campervan relocation.
Picking up the rental car in Melbourne, we made our way along the southern coast until we reached Port Fairy. There were some beautiful sights along the Great Ocean Road, our favorites being the 12 Apostles and the Bay of Martyrs. In Port Fairy we had a treat because all I wanted for my birthday was fish and chips! We found a great "fish and chippery" right on the wharf and indulged in battered flake and yummy chips (fries).
From Port Fairy, we turned north toward the Grampians National Park. In a town called Hall's Gap we found accommodation and close encounters with kangaroos who wandered into the campgrounds looking for food. After the 4 of us enjoyed many gin and tonics, music, and card games, Hannah, Emma, and Kent presented me with my homemade chocolate birthday cake, which was absolutely delicious, especially with Kent's homemade lemon zest whipped cream. I even had a candle to blow out!
The next day we toured the Grampians including Baroka Lookout, the Balconies, and MacKenzie Falls. With a short stop in Ballarat, we continued back to Melbourne to pick up the next vehicle, a "relocation" from Melbourne to Adelaide in a Maui 4x4 pop-top campervan. But that is an adventure for another day...
We worked when the park was busy, mostly on the weekends. Kent spent his Friday and Saturday nights as security guard from 10:30-2:30am. We lazed on the beach when it was sunny, occasionally going for a dip in the "refreshing" (cold) sea. We indulged in rotisserie chicken and chocolate cake for Kent's birthday. We played board games and card games, cooked barbecues, and explored the local area. Sharna and Damo took us to see glow worms along some deserted trails one night and another time We picked wild blackberries and made pancakes. We prayed our tent wouldn't blow away when storms came through, and I gave Kent a haircut. We made some awesome friends and exciting traveling plans.
After making our furtune as casual cleaners and security guard, we couldn't wait to begin exploring the rest of this huge continent. We joined forces with Hannah and Emma, 2 British girls who were also working with us at Wye River, and we arranged to see the rest of the Great Ocean Road and the State of Victoria, and make our way to Adelaide via car rental and campervan relocation.
Picking up the rental car in Melbourne, we made our way along the southern coast until we reached Port Fairy. There were some beautiful sights along the Great Ocean Road, our favorites being the 12 Apostles and the Bay of Martyrs. In Port Fairy we had a treat because all I wanted for my birthday was fish and chips! We found a great "fish and chippery" right on the wharf and indulged in battered flake and yummy chips (fries).
From Port Fairy, we turned north toward the Grampians National Park. In a town called Hall's Gap we found accommodation and close encounters with kangaroos who wandered into the campgrounds looking for food. After the 4 of us enjoyed many gin and tonics, music, and card games, Hannah, Emma, and Kent presented me with my homemade chocolate birthday cake, which was absolutely delicious, especially with Kent's homemade lemon zest whipped cream. I even had a candle to blow out!
The next day we toured the Grampians including Baroka Lookout, the Balconies, and MacKenzie Falls. With a short stop in Ballarat, we continued back to Melbourne to pick up the next vehicle, a "relocation" from Melbourne to Adelaide in a Maui 4x4 pop-top campervan. But that is an adventure for another day...
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Living in a Tent
Our journey to Australia has begun! After going through customs, we jumped on a bus that took us to downtown Melbourne. We had heard great things about the City of Melbourne, so we began our journey there, and loved it. There is a river running right through just south of the CBD where everyone comes to enjoy the great weather, go for a run, or eat at one of the many waterfront restaurants. There are beautiful beaches just a short tram ride away, and plenty of museums, culture, and nightlife to keep you entertained for years! We stayed at a great hostel and met some awesome people. We went to the markets, libraries, restaurants, beaches, and bars. Unfortunately, staying in the city is also hard on the wallet, so we decided to try to make use of our working holiday visas, which allow us to get short term jobs while traveling the country.
It wasn't easy finding jobs amongst the many other backpackers looking for work. Most jobs available in the city were door to door sales and other commission based work (not our bag, baby). We finally saw a posting on the hostel message board for work and accommodation at a Big4 campgrounds about 2 hours outside of Melbourne, along the Great Ocean Road (a popular tourist drive along beautiful beaches). After a phone call, we were all set to start work the following week!
We hopped on another bus headed to the Great Ocean Road. We arrived, set up our puny 2-man dome tent and luxurious air mattress, and were all set to start work the next morning. We tried to sleep through the sounds of wild pigs and monkeys, and midway through the night realized we were sleeping on the hard ground, thanks to the inability of the air mattress to actually hold air. We were not very cheerful upon waking in that cramped tent, but we headed down to start work and tried to put on a smile. Turns out the "wild pigs" are actually koalas (seriously, try to find a youtube of the noise) and the "monkeys" are actually kookaburras laughing. By the end of the 8-hour day, we returned to our campsite to find Grahm, a resident/employee of the campgrounds, setting up his 2-room tent for us. Our new found friends and coworkers managed to hook us up with a real mattress, linens, pillows, towels, an icebox, and a table with chairs. There was no trouble smiling now! We quickly set up our new home and converted our "old" home to the closet. We are camping in style!
The setup we have is great. There is a beautiful beach with great surf right across the street, and our coworkers are so generous and fun! Koalas live in the trees around us and kangaroos hang out in the field about 100 meters away from our tent. Life is good.
It wasn't easy finding jobs amongst the many other backpackers looking for work. Most jobs available in the city were door to door sales and other commission based work (not our bag, baby). We finally saw a posting on the hostel message board for work and accommodation at a Big4 campgrounds about 2 hours outside of Melbourne, along the Great Ocean Road (a popular tourist drive along beautiful beaches). After a phone call, we were all set to start work the following week!
We hopped on another bus headed to the Great Ocean Road. We arrived, set up our puny 2-man dome tent and luxurious air mattress, and were all set to start work the next morning. We tried to sleep through the sounds of wild pigs and monkeys, and midway through the night realized we were sleeping on the hard ground, thanks to the inability of the air mattress to actually hold air. We were not very cheerful upon waking in that cramped tent, but we headed down to start work and tried to put on a smile. Turns out the "wild pigs" are actually koalas (seriously, try to find a youtube of the noise) and the "monkeys" are actually kookaburras laughing. By the end of the 8-hour day, we returned to our campsite to find Grahm, a resident/employee of the campgrounds, setting up his 2-room tent for us. Our new found friends and coworkers managed to hook us up with a real mattress, linens, pillows, towels, an icebox, and a table with chairs. There was no trouble smiling now! We quickly set up our new home and converted our "old" home to the closet. We are camping in style!
The setup we have is great. There is a beautiful beach with great surf right across the street, and our coworkers are so generous and fun! Koalas live in the trees around us and kangaroos hang out in the field about 100 meters away from our tent. Life is good.
Thursday, February 25, 2010
When One Door Closes...
We drove to the Coromandel Peninsula, and lucky for us, the weather was also great on the east coast! We based ourselves in a town called Whitianga where we could visit Hot Water Beach (you can dig a hole in the sand at low tide and thermally heated water fills it!) and Cathedral Cove, a beautiful beach accessed by a 30 minute walk through the bush. Before we knew it, it was time to head to Auckland. We spent the afternoon walking around the harbor and checking out the Anniversary Weekend festival. By evening, we were arriving at the Cliffside home of Jeff and Gilli. We were stunned by the amazing view down to the Muriwai black sand beach from their back porch.
Jeff and Gilli were so generous that they offered us their holiday home in Taupo Bay to explore Northland, the northernmost region of NZ. We took the scenic route up to Taupo Bay stopping at several beaches and sights along the way. While in Taupo Bay, we made day trips to Cape Reinga, the northernmost point of NZ, and to Waitangi for the festivities of Waitangi Day, a holiday celebrating the Treaty of Waitangi that was signed between the Maori and the Europeans. The rest of the time, we relaxed, swam in the ocean, did some reading, and at low tide collected tuatua (clams) for dinner. We were on a good old kiwi holiday! Although we hated to admit it, our time in this beautiful country was running low, so we made it back to Auckland to return the rental car and spend one last day with Jeff & Gilli. After a delicious fresh seafood BBQ with potato salad, baked beans, and coleslaw, and fruit salad with homemade whipped cream for dessert, we packed up for Melbourne. The next morning, Jeff was driving us to the airport and it was time to say goodbye to friends and an incredible country. Onward to the next adventure…
Jeff and Gilli were so generous that they offered us their holiday home in Taupo Bay to explore Northland, the northernmost region of NZ. We took the scenic route up to Taupo Bay stopping at several beaches and sights along the way. While in Taupo Bay, we made day trips to Cape Reinga, the northernmost point of NZ, and to Waitangi for the festivities of Waitangi Day, a holiday celebrating the Treaty of Waitangi that was signed between the Maori and the Europeans. The rest of the time, we relaxed, swam in the ocean, did some reading, and at low tide collected tuatua (clams) for dinner. We were on a good old kiwi holiday! Although we hated to admit it, our time in this beautiful country was running low, so we made it back to Auckland to return the rental car and spend one last day with Jeff & Gilli. After a delicious fresh seafood BBQ with potato salad, baked beans, and coleslaw, and fruit salad with homemade whipped cream for dessert, we packed up for Melbourne. The next morning, Jeff was driving us to the airport and it was time to say goodbye to friends and an incredible country. Onward to the next adventure…
Black Water Rafting and Black Sand Beaches!
After an awesome stay in Rotorua, we drove west to Waitomo to check out the caves! We got set up with a cave tour in which you climb and tube down through the caves for several hours in frigid water, over waterfalls, and sometimes in the pitch black. It was awesome! We were happy we had wetsuits and helmets with lights…when we all turned off the lights, it was very eerie. We finally saw glowworms, which are actually gnat larvae that produce a bit of light to lure prey in the dark cave.
After surfacing from the cave tour, it was a hot and sunny day, so we headed to Raglan, the beach town! There was still plenty of daylight left so we relaxed on the black sand beach, then headed into town for some dinner. Our time in Raglan was spent watching the surfing and kiteboarding and catching some vitamin D. Before we left, we met up with my dad’s friend Tony Bruce! He owns the surf/kite/coffee shops in town. He showed us around his empire and we caught up on the happenings of the past 25 years. It was tough leaving Raglan, especially with such beautiful weather, but we still had much of the North Island to conquer.
After surfacing from the cave tour, it was a hot and sunny day, so we headed to Raglan, the beach town! There was still plenty of daylight left so we relaxed on the black sand beach, then headed into town for some dinner. Our time in Raglan was spent watching the surfing and kiteboarding and catching some vitamin D. Before we left, we met up with my dad’s friend Tony Bruce! He owns the surf/kite/coffee shops in town. He showed us around his empire and we caught up on the happenings of the past 25 years. It was tough leaving Raglan, especially with such beautiful weather, but we still had much of the North Island to conquer.
Thursday, February 18, 2010
The Town of Many Smells
When it was time to move on from Taupo, we headed north to a town called Rotorua, which Kent named the “Town of Many Smells.” All around Rotorua, the crust is very thin and the hydrogen sulphide can be smelled throughout the town. Yum! There is a ton of stuff to do there though, and we had a great time. Coincidentally, our visit coincided with a reggae festival called Raggamuffin, so we bought tickets and headed to the all day concert! Great reggae, great weather, what more could we ask for? Well a place to spend the night for one! We had been trying for the past week to find accommodation in or around Rotorua, but because of the festival, everything was booked solid! We drove 15 minutes outside of town, in the dark, to a camp ground, reclined the seats in the Corolla, and tried to catch a few hours of sleep!
While in Rotorua, we visited the world-renowned Polynesian Spa, where they have sulpher pools and mineral pools geothermally heated to different temperatures and supposed to heal physical ailments and sore muscles. The pools are outdoors overlooking Sulpher Bay. We also visited Wai-o-Tapu Thermal Wonderland where we saw a (fake) geyser, colored mineral pools (yellow, blue, green, red – from the different minerals dissolved in them), craters, boiling mud, hot springs, and waterfalls. Even though the geyser was induced to erupt, and I was very skeptical to go see it, in the end it was pretty impressive. Later that night, we had plans for a Maori cultural experience. The Maori are the indigenous people of New Zealand. Our group was picked up in a bus and taken to the Tamaki Village. After a warriors’ welcome that was both extraordinary and intimidating, we were led into the village to see how the Maori lived in the 1800’s. Next, we were given a musical dancing performance, and taken to the dining room to eat the hangi (a feast cooked by fire-hot rocks in an underground pit). Everything was delicious and we left with a belly full of food and wine, and knowledge of the Maori people. Before leaving Rotorua, we hit up the luge…a downhill track in which you sit in a little go-kart and hurtle down to the bottom where you catch a ski-lift back up to do it again! Good times!
While in Rotorua, we visited the world-renowned Polynesian Spa, where they have sulpher pools and mineral pools geothermally heated to different temperatures and supposed to heal physical ailments and sore muscles. The pools are outdoors overlooking Sulpher Bay. We also visited Wai-o-Tapu Thermal Wonderland where we saw a (fake) geyser, colored mineral pools (yellow, blue, green, red – from the different minerals dissolved in them), craters, boiling mud, hot springs, and waterfalls. Even though the geyser was induced to erupt, and I was very skeptical to go see it, in the end it was pretty impressive. Later that night, we had plans for a Maori cultural experience. The Maori are the indigenous people of New Zealand. Our group was picked up in a bus and taken to the Tamaki Village. After a warriors’ welcome that was both extraordinary and intimidating, we were led into the village to see how the Maori lived in the 1800’s. Next, we were given a musical dancing performance, and taken to the dining room to eat the hangi (a feast cooked by fire-hot rocks in an underground pit). Everything was delicious and we left with a belly full of food and wine, and knowledge of the Maori people. Before leaving Rotorua, we hit up the luge…a downhill track in which you sit in a little go-kart and hurtle down to the bottom where you catch a ski-lift back up to do it again! Good times!
Wednesday, February 10, 2010
The North Island Adventure Begins!
We had heard that the ferry from the South Island to the North Island is a beautiful journey on a 10-deck ship through Marlborough Sounds and the Cook Strait. Unfortunately, the storms caught up to us again and we had a rough day at sea. We were probably in the minority in that we managed to keep our lunch down, as they say (thank you Dramamine). After a long and arduous journey, we made it to Wellington to find the weather as cold and windy as the Cook Strait. We spent several days in Wellington, visited the local farmers’ market, Te Papa Museum, the harbor, and some eats. We also made plans on how to conquer the North Island.
Setting off from Wellington, we drove north in the rental car to do the Tongariro Crossing, a 7 hour 19.4 km walk through Tongariro National Park, on the rims of several volcano craters, over natural hot springs, and around hydrogen sulphide gas steaming through thin layers in the earth’s crust. What an incredible journey!
After that walk, our legs were tired, but our arms weren’t! So the next day we went for a canoe in the Whanganui River. We were jet-boated up the river and left to canoe down at our own pace and enjoy the sunny weather. The scenery was awesome; in some areas the river was glassier than any lake I have ever seen, with huge cliffs rising up on either side and wild mountain goats grazing. In other areas, there were rapids! We paddled through several areas of rapids, only having to bail out the canoe once….until we reached the final rapid, the fiercest rapid of all! Kent was gung-ho about tackling this head on, so we paddled as fast as we could though the highest and roughest part, right down the middle. We sliced right through each wave, and we were almost through, but the sides of the canoe were level with the river and we were sitting in a completely flooded canoe! We swam out of the canoe and hung on to it until we found a spot downriver to pull over and finish our ride.
After that adventure, we were on the hunt for something relaxing. Our next destination to spend a few days was Taupo, a cute little town on Lake Taupo, which is a lake in a volcano caldera and the largest lake (by surface area) in NZ. There were plenty of beautiful sights, a waterfall, and great bars in Taupo. Our highlight was when we found an aquatic center with geothermally heated pools and lap pools! We got some exercise, relaxed in the heated pools, and had a steam in the steam room. We found our relaxing destination!
Setting off from Wellington, we drove north in the rental car to do the Tongariro Crossing, a 7 hour 19.4 km walk through Tongariro National Park, on the rims of several volcano craters, over natural hot springs, and around hydrogen sulphide gas steaming through thin layers in the earth’s crust. What an incredible journey!
After that walk, our legs were tired, but our arms weren’t! So the next day we went for a canoe in the Whanganui River. We were jet-boated up the river and left to canoe down at our own pace and enjoy the sunny weather. The scenery was awesome; in some areas the river was glassier than any lake I have ever seen, with huge cliffs rising up on either side and wild mountain goats grazing. In other areas, there were rapids! We paddled through several areas of rapids, only having to bail out the canoe once….until we reached the final rapid, the fiercest rapid of all! Kent was gung-ho about tackling this head on, so we paddled as fast as we could though the highest and roughest part, right down the middle. We sliced right through each wave, and we were almost through, but the sides of the canoe were level with the river and we were sitting in a completely flooded canoe! We swam out of the canoe and hung on to it until we found a spot downriver to pull over and finish our ride.
After that adventure, we were on the hunt for something relaxing. Our next destination to spend a few days was Taupo, a cute little town on Lake Taupo, which is a lake in a volcano caldera and the largest lake (by surface area) in NZ. There were plenty of beautiful sights, a waterfall, and great bars in Taupo. Our highlight was when we found an aquatic center with geothermally heated pools and lap pools! We got some exercise, relaxed in the heated pools, and had a steam in the steam room. We found our relaxing destination!
Monday, February 8, 2010
Our last days on the South Island
We headed towards the west coast and booked a tour to hike on the Fox Glacier. It started off as a cloudy day, but nothing we weren’t used to by now. Then the rain started to fall, just as we were ascending 800 steps through the sub-temperate rainforest on our way to the ice. The glacier was enormous with a bluish tint and tons of deep crevices that could swallow you up with the slightest slip. By now it was starting to rain pretty hard, and we could hear the booms of ice on the terminal face breaking off. We hurried off the glacier and back towards the parking lot avoiding falling rocks and icy surge waves along the way. After drying off a bit, we found a basic campsite to spend the night and parked beneath a tree hoping that this would help prevent the van from leaking. The “daylight” woke us up early in the morning and the rain had not let up one bit. To make matters worse, a window had been left cracked open throughout the night and our van was infested with what seemed like hundreds of sleeping mosquitoes! We both freaked out and started driving towards shelter so we could open all the doors and windows without getting soaked in the process. Luckily, there was a gas station nearby with an awning…that was a close call and we both managed to escape with just a couple bites. The rain kept coming down and we decided to drive north until we found sunshine again. It was still raining a few days later, but we finally found nice weather in Nelson! Since the sun was shining, we decided to do some kayaking in the Golden Bay, which is part of Able Tasman National Park. We would paddle through glistening waters for a while, then pull up on the beach for a bit to catch some rays. In Nelson, we enjoyed a short hike to the center of NZ during the day and a delicious steak dinner at Lone Star in the evening (not the same as the American version….much better). After a couple days of city life, we had to make our way back to Christchurch, but not without a short stop in Havelock, which is apparently the green lipped mussel capital of the world. They were very big and tasty! While in Christchurch, we sadly said goodbye to the van and prepared for our early morning train ride to Picton where we would catch a ferry to the North Island.
Tuesday, January 26, 2010
Craft Beer, Snow-Capped Mountaintops, and a Leaky Van
We chugged along in our little home-on-wheels up to the famous Milford Sound. There was so much to be seen on the drive, we made several stops along the way to take it all in. We found a day walk that sounded nice, up to Lake Marian, and since the weather was beautiful, we took advantage of it. That was definitely worth the hike!! A 400m ascent lead us to a pristine lake filled by waterfalls flowing down the steep cliffs and snow-capped mountains in the background. Some of you might recognize my facebook photo. It was breathtaking.
As it was late when we got back to the van, we decided to find a place to camp for the night. We were awoken to heavy rains and thunderstorms on the outside (and inside!) of the van. Everything was soaked by morning and the rain was not letting up! All we could do was continue our journey up to Milford Sound. It poured the whole way, but one amazing aspect was that all the waterfalls were in full force and the drive in the alpine environment was just incredible. There was fresh show on the mountain tops, from what we could see between the clouds, and keas (alpine parrots) were hanging around the tourists waiting for some food scraps. We had done a cruise of Doubtful Sound several days before (which was just amazing – see the pics of the double rainbows with dolphins swimming beneath), so we left tourist-packed Milford Sound in search of some sunshine. It took a 4 hour drive to Queenstown to find some, but we were able to dry out our van and bedding!
Finally in civilization again, we decided to check out the nightlife in Queenstown. Walking around, we stumbled upon something right up our alley – Dux de Lux, a microbrew pub, with a reggae band playing that night! After 2 nights in Queenstown, and an unsuccessful search for free wifi, we headed to Arrowtown, a quaint little historic village, where we spent a night, and then it was off to Wanaka. Desley had gotten in touch with her brother who lives in Wanaka, and we went to visit Dale and Cherie and their family when we got there. They were just wonderful, offering their guest room and meals, and giving us local advice on things to do in the area. The best day was when we did the walk to see the Rob Roy hanging glacier. It wasn’t the best of weather, but we got as prepared as we could, and set off. It was definitely worth walking 3 hours in the rain! The first glacier I ever saw! It was still quite high and far, and since the sky was cloudy, the pictures didn’t come out as well as I wanted, but it was a great walk. We were soaked, cold, and tired when we got back to the van, but we changed into dry clothes and set back into town. We had a reservation at the theatre! You may be thinking, you went to a movie in NZ? Why, you can do that at home! This was a special theatre and we went on the advice of Caitlin! We saw Sherlock Holmes, but we sat in a couch like in our living room, and during intermission, snacked on freshly made cookies! Totally the best thing to do after a long cold walk in an alpine forest. The movie was good too =)
As it was late when we got back to the van, we decided to find a place to camp for the night. We were awoken to heavy rains and thunderstorms on the outside (and inside!) of the van. Everything was soaked by morning and the rain was not letting up! All we could do was continue our journey up to Milford Sound. It poured the whole way, but one amazing aspect was that all the waterfalls were in full force and the drive in the alpine environment was just incredible. There was fresh show on the mountain tops, from what we could see between the clouds, and keas (alpine parrots) were hanging around the tourists waiting for some food scraps. We had done a cruise of Doubtful Sound several days before (which was just amazing – see the pics of the double rainbows with dolphins swimming beneath), so we left tourist-packed Milford Sound in search of some sunshine. It took a 4 hour drive to Queenstown to find some, but we were able to dry out our van and bedding!
Finally in civilization again, we decided to check out the nightlife in Queenstown. Walking around, we stumbled upon something right up our alley – Dux de Lux, a microbrew pub, with a reggae band playing that night! After 2 nights in Queenstown, and an unsuccessful search for free wifi, we headed to Arrowtown, a quaint little historic village, where we spent a night, and then it was off to Wanaka. Desley had gotten in touch with her brother who lives in Wanaka, and we went to visit Dale and Cherie and their family when we got there. They were just wonderful, offering their guest room and meals, and giving us local advice on things to do in the area. The best day was when we did the walk to see the Rob Roy hanging glacier. It wasn’t the best of weather, but we got as prepared as we could, and set off. It was definitely worth walking 3 hours in the rain! The first glacier I ever saw! It was still quite high and far, and since the sky was cloudy, the pictures didn’t come out as well as I wanted, but it was a great walk. We were soaked, cold, and tired when we got back to the van, but we changed into dry clothes and set back into town. We had a reservation at the theatre! You may be thinking, you went to a movie in NZ? Why, you can do that at home! This was a special theatre and we went on the advice of Caitlin! We saw Sherlock Holmes, but we sat in a couch like in our living room, and during intermission, snacked on freshly made cookies! Totally the best thing to do after a long cold walk in an alpine forest. The movie was good too =)
Wednesday, January 13, 2010
Memories of Monowai
Our new found friends, Desley & Tama, invited us to spend the holidays with them at their holiday home, or crib as the locals say, in a town called Monowai, near Fiordland National Park. Definitely off the beaten path, or in Deliverance Country, as Tama calls it, the crib in Monowai fronts on a small lagoon that’s part of Lake Monowai. We were fortunate enough to spend the holidays with loved ones and enjoyed an amazing Christmas feast of lamb roast, pork roast, chicken, potato salad, slaw, stuffing, and veggies, and (amongst others) a traditional kiwi dessert, pavlova, an egg white and sugar whipped cake of deliciousness. The next day, we began our trek called the HumpRidge Track. Kent, Desley, and I set off on a rainy cold morning to climb 900 meters to the first hut. We walked for 7 hours on the beach and through the beautiful wet moss- covered rainforests. It was a 19 mile trek that day, and all the uphill was after lunch, so we were dead tired by the time we reached the hut. The 2nd day was not much easier, although it was downhill, because it was just as steep. We finished the 55km trek in three days of walking. It was beautiful and rewarding, but when we finished, it would have been heavenly to have a spa or a masseuse waiting!! I really give props to Desley, who discovered she had been sold 2 different sized boots after 2 days of walking. That would explain the foot pain!!
New Years Eve in Monowai was another great time. Along with about 20 others, a bonfire was made. It was a chilly night, but the fire was toasty. It was a blue moon, and very windy. The wind was a bit scary when it was making the huge bonfire blow completely sideways, but everything was ok in the end, most likely thanks to the rainfall the day before. Beers, cheers, and loved ones made it a memorable way to ring in 2010.
Eventually, it was time to make our departure to explore the rest of the South Island. We packed up and loaded the van for more adventures.
New Years Eve in Monowai was another great time. Along with about 20 others, a bonfire was made. It was a chilly night, but the fire was toasty. It was a blue moon, and very windy. The wind was a bit scary when it was making the huge bonfire blow completely sideways, but everything was ok in the end, most likely thanks to the rainfall the day before. Beers, cheers, and loved ones made it a memorable way to ring in 2010.
Eventually, it was time to make our departure to explore the rest of the South Island. We packed up and loaded the van for more adventures.
Tuesday, January 12, 2010
Roadtrip to the deep South
After two weeks in Christchurch and thanks to a couple good connections, we got ourselves a big ol’ van! A 1997 white Ford Econovan that runs on pure Diesel. We packed up our gear, threw a mattress in the back and we were on our way. The plan was to head south along the coast with several stops along the way. Our first stop was Oamaru, but we didn’t stay long because everything was closed due to how late we arrived. Just enough time to see a penguin or two! We spent the night in Moeraki at a little camp ground run by a cranky Swiss lady in a bathrobe. She yelled at me because we arrived after she was already in bed, but we still managed to secure a sweet spot for the night. In the morning, we made a stop at the Moeraki boulders and then had a fresh caught seafood brunch at Fleur’s right on the coast. Then it was back on the road towards Dunedin. Dunedin is a beautiful city, but our favorite was the Speight’s brewery tour with unlimited samples at the end! The next day we made our way down to the Catlins and stayed at a holiday park in Pounawea and decided our next move. It’s hard to believe that it doesn’t get dark until aroun 11pm this close to the Antarctic. In the morning, we headed down the Catlins coast with a big day planned. Our stops included Nugget Point, Jacks Bay Blowhole, Purakauhui Falls and Curio Bay. The petrified forest in Curio Bay was by far the best for wildlife. We saw yellow-eyed penguins and a sea lion up close and got some good pics and video. The weather is crazy right now, as we are sitting in the van getting pelted by hail and strong winds. A massive “friendly” sea lion came right up to the office at the campsite, but while trying to take a picture Alison was charged at and managed to escape with her life. Invercargill was our next stop way at the bottom of the south island. It’s one of the bigger towns along our route, but it was rather quiet when we arrived. We had a very nice kiwi-style meal at the Speight’s Ale House and had the rare opportunity to watch some good old fashioned AMERICAN football on TV (I believe Green Bay was playing the Steelers in Pittsburgh). Before leaving town, we treated ourselves to some delicious Blue Cod fish & chips and continued on our way. The key is, dip everything in lots of mayo…. I’m sure you can tell that Kent wrote this post since the main highlights are beer and food….
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